Letting go of summer and embracing autumn can sometimes seem like two very distinct moments. There was the ode to the last ripe blackberries and now, a month later, the first warming soup of the season. It’s one of the tell-tale signs—buying a new box of earl grey tea, wearing leggings under an outfit, craving hot soup for dinner…
This one’s tried and tested by millions, hearty enough to break the month-long fasting of Ramadan in places like Morocco and Algeria. It’s often made with stock bones or lamb, which I’ve omitted partly for the sake of proving that vegetarian soups can be equally sustaining and wholesome, loaded with all sorts of protein from egg, leafy greens, lentils, and chickpeas.
It makes a big textural difference to start from dried chickpeas, and it’s on a matter of soaking them overnight and saving some money in the process! I’ve added some lacinato kale (with a beautifully dimpled matte texture, the kind used in minestrone) but any will suit. Kale tastes of the winter, and when cooked down in stews it lends a dimension of dark leafy greens that warms your insides and steams up the kitchen in a cosy way.
Soak chickpeas overnight, discarding any skins.
Peel and smash or puree the tomatoes, leaving some chunks of skin and seed for texture. Grate half of the onion and finely chop the other.
Sauté onion in a large saucepan with a splash of vegetable oil until slightly browned, then add the tomato puree, tomato paste, fresh cilantro, parsley, spices, lentils, and soaked chickpeas. Stir in 700ml quality vegetable stock and cover in a large saucepan over high heat. Reduce to medium-low and simmer for 45 minutes, topping up with more boiling water if stock is becoming too thick or dry.
Add in handfuls of torn dino kale, reserving thick stems for another use. Raise heat and cover again, stirring every few minutes until the kale is cooked down. Uncover and simmer for another 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
To thicken up the soup, beat two eggs with the lemon juice and streaming slowly into the simmering soup while stirring constantly.
Meanwhile, pound/grind some fresh cilantro leaves, with cumin and a pinch of sea salt. Stream in some olive oil and use this as a garnish on each serving of hot soup, along with a dollop of thick yogurt, cilantro/parsley leaves, and some wholemeal flatbread.
In my initial touristic excitement before moving to the UK, I made a mental list (okay, also a physical one…) of quintessentially British foods to try as soon as possible. Usually I’m stubbornly efficient about working my way through a complete list before repeating any one item but—two years later—I’ve surely consumed fish & chips more times than I’ve sought out the nearest jellied eel joint. Because this list was primarily formulated from culturally-detached web encyclopaedias, a few items have stuck for one reason or another.
Kedgeree, for example, has always been in my “top 3” but I still haven’t spotted it on a menu. The word itself is met with blank stares and raised eyebrows from native English folk, leaving me to sheepishly insist that it’s ‘a really British thing, isn’t it?’
Maybe I’m eating at all the wrong places and hanging out with all the wrong people, but I wonder if it’s one of those theoretically quintessential dishes, notable in historical context but becoming obsolete in practicing popular culture. I struggle to think of an example from Florida, but I guess I’d need a foreigner’s list of ‘quintessentially American foods’ to have the appropriate perspective.
If this hypothesis has any bearing, you’re also staring blankly at the mention of kedgeree. The encyclopaedic sources describe it as a curried rice dish featuring smoked fish and boiled eggs, brought back in Victorian times by British colonials who fell in love with the old Indian dish called khichri. It was a perfectly hearty vehicle for leftovers from the previous night’s meals, and is henceforth associated with breakfast and brunch. In any case, I’ve revisited my list and decided to finally tick it off by making my own.
Although smoked haddock is ubiquitous in the UK (and indeed very delicious), it’s harder to find it untainted by shady fishing practices and synthetic dyeing. Living sandwiched between a pair of embarrassingly gentrified South London high streets, substituting with smoked kippers becomes a happy alternative when two independent fishmongers are accessible within 3 minutes by bike. A kipper is a cold-smoked whole herring, butterflied to maximise the exposed surface area. The verb kipper is used to describe the preservation of meat by salting and smoking, but originated from this process as applied to the extra fish (kips!) harvested during spawning season.
They’re are another one of those increasingly obsolete “classic” British breakfast items, so I figured it would pair quite well with kedgeree on multiple levels. Broccoli seems to be overflowing on produce shelves at this time of year, and the dish benefitted from some green in addition to traditional handfuls of fresh parsley. The result is massively flavoursome and hearty, working equally well for a hungover weekend brunch or Monday’s lunchbox.
Feeling a bit invincible after that, I naively packed my heels away and somehow managed to cycle 5 miles home with the incredibly generous but famously heavy OFM Awards goodybag. I’m still a bit dazed from the unexpectedly lavish ceremony and sheer spread of canapés, but it was was an absolute joy and honour to be amongst so many talented, passionate (and eventually quite inebriated) people. From drink historians to knife makers, niches big and small were represented; the Michelin-starred Ledbury and family-owned Silk Road were recognised on the same stage; a goat farm, food blogger, and pub owner were celebrated under the same gilded roof.
Dazzled though I am, I know full well that this photograph is still just a rectangular arrangement of pixels—but it’s also a pithy artefact of my personal investments, developing interests, and artistic endeavours in food across cultures. Winning Nigel Slater’s approval doesn’t transform this snap into anything more than a pretty picture, but it serves as a reminder to me and to everybody else that a singular personal interest can contribute, in some quietly significant way, to a much larger and endlessly vibrant community (in this case, innovators, chefs, writers, entrepreneurs, eaters, critics, visionaries, craftsmen) who shares that hunger and collectively shapes our world.
300g smoked British kipper
4 dried red chilis
1 dried bay leaf
unsweetened almond milk
150g broccoli florets
1 leek, sliced
4 cardamom pods, split
1 small cinnamon stick, broken up
2 t curry powder
250g long-grain brown rice
dash of turmeric
sea salt, to taste
2 T sunflower oil
1 onion, sliced very thinly
2 free-range eggs
Put the smoked fish in a saucepan with bay leaf and dried chills, covering with just enough milk. Cover with a lid and simmer for 4 minutes, then take off the heat and let stand for 10 minutes to finish cooking.
Remove fish from the milk, discarding skin and deboning as much as possible whilst flaking the flesh into bite-sized pieces and setting aside. Top up the remaining milk with water until there is 650ml (~2 ¾ cups) of liquid.
Heat sunflower oil in a wok or deep sauté pan. Add, leek, broccoli, cardamom, cinnamon stick, curry powder, and stir-fry until leek and broccoli are soft.
Rinse the rice, drain, and stir into onion mixture so that oil coats the grains. Pour in the milk mixture and add turmeric. Bring to a boil, then cover and lower the heat to simmer for 30 minutes. Add fish over the top before covering quickly again to let the flavours mingle for another 15 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is fully cooked.
Meanwhile, heat a few tablespoons of sunflower oil in a sauté pan and add onions with a pinch of salt, which will keep them from burning. Cook on medium heat until deep golden brown, stirring occasionally. Let them drain on a paper towel to crisp up.
At the same time, cover 2 eggs with cold water and bring to a boil, simmering for 6 minutes. Plunge into cold water, peel, and quarter.
Mix up finished rice with the flakes of fish, stir in some freshly torn parsley, and season to taste if necessary. Serve garnished with the crispy onions, more parsley, quartered eggs, yogurt, and a squeeze of lemon.
I moved to New York City more than a year ago for one semester and, and as we now begin our final academic year in London this week, that term abroad seems like eons ago. As my classmate noted this startling anniversary and we reminisced in a chorus of ululations, I realised never wrote one dedicated “travel post” for NYC. I lived and studied there for 6 months and it was technically my native country, but it was just as much a cross-cultural experience as any of my other shorter-term travels (arguably more so, even).
The architecture was staggering, the design community was endlessly rich, the amount of options for good food was overwhelming. The winter was cold and Christmas was magical. I learned and grew—as both a human and a designer, not to mention my waistline—more than I would have ever could have guessed, and it’s time to commemorate that with a solid anniversary post consisting of some old snaps (excuse the iPhone quality), poignantly sardonic excerpts from the weekly blog I kept, and these very cute miniature knishes.
One more note about knishes before I leave you to the sarcastic ramblings from the old blog… I had my first NYC knish at the old Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery in the Lower East Side, and they’re starchy and filling like most of the fantastically stodgy fare introduced to America in the 1900s by Eastern European immigrants. Along with the likes of matzoh ball soup and challah loaves, it comes to mind when one thinks of Jewish cuisine; along with the likes of the Indian samosa, Latin American empanada, and Middle Eastern fatayer, these miniature versions are bite-sized savouries contained in a parcel of wholemeal dough (the concept of which, as far as I’m concerned, is akin to diamond-encrusted rubies). Traditional fillings can include ground meat, sauerkraut, and buckwheat groats, but the beauty is in the customisation—diamond-encrust some amethyst, sapphire, pearl… seasonal sweet dumpling squash is featured here alongside caramelised leek.
Mini Knishes with Potato, Leek, & Winter Squash
(makes about 20)
salt and pepper
250g seasonal squash
1 leek, sliced into thin discs
3 T veg oil
⅔ cup water
1 T white vinegar
generous pinch of salt
2 cups wholemeal/spelt flour
1 egg, beaten
non-dairy milk, unsweetened
Bring a pot of cold water to boil with potatoes and cubes of seasonal squash, simmer until tender, then drain. Meanwhile, cook leeks with some sunflower oil in a wide pan over low heat until dark, sweet, and caramelised. Combine with potatoes, squash, and egg. Mash well with a fork, season to taste, and set aside.
Preheat oven to 190ºC / 375ºF.
For the pastry, combine oil, water, vinegar, and salt. Add flour gradually while mixing and knead into a ball of dough. Divide into three and cover with a dishtowel to let the gluten in the dough rest for 30 minutes.
Roll each piece into a very thin rectangle and let rest for another 15 minutes.
Spread ⅓ of the prepared filling across ⅓ length of the dough, leaving a bit of a border on the left and right. Roll up like a log, brushing oil across the top as you go.
Beat the remaining egg with a splash of milk and set aside to use for glazing.
Using a knife, divide the roll into 2-inch knishes. Place each down on the greased baking sheet with a few inches of space in between, pinching closed the top side. Repeat with the remaining balls and dough.
Brush the knishes with the egg wash and bake for about 20 minutes or until golden brown. I served these with a fancy drizzle of balsamic glaze.
‘I made a trip to the New York public library in Bryant Park, which was surprisingly beautiful, historic, and European. Downside: didn’t get much actual work done between the journey there, the search for food, ceiling-gawking, socket-hunting, etc. Last weekend, Akshitha and I made a trip to the Met and meandered in Central Park, which is far more exhausting than it sounds; it takes a lot of energy to tackle as much culture as the Met has on display. But for now, homework. Reading Calvin, Aristotle, Kant; cranking out 30 typographic logos (sounds frightfully familiar); preparing artwork on vellum for screen printing; researching a company whose packages we will need to greenify; preparing our publication pitch…the list goes on, but I’m afraid to put it fully in perspective until I can cross off a few tasks. I’m off to conquer the list and cross off “update NYC blog.”’
‘I successfully crammed in a lot this past week to make up for such a decrepit weekend. My roommate came home with free tickets to a live taping of America’s Got Talent on Wednesday night, and then I spent my Thursday volunteering at a Fashion Week event, which was horrifying; thank goodness Akshitha was there to nod in tandem with me as fellow volunteers and show guests prattled on about this famous designer or that certain celebrity. We went home with very sore feet and a dozen hair product samples, but it was a good life experience. When at FIT, right? Smorgasburg also happened. That was much more in my comfort zone, and I felt like I could have easily been at a London food market—even the weather has been cool and rainy lately. I got the most amazing quinoa salteña empanada and some garlic and chive gouda cornbread. This is after tackling an 18” pizza the night before; New York tastes good.’
‘Saturday we tried for the Guggenheim, where it would be the last pay-as-you-wish entry (Saturdays between 17.45 and 19.45 as opposed to $18 student fare) before the James Turrell exhibit closed. We rushed through the convoluted subway system, caught a bus, and ran five blocks just to have the line cut off about ten people ahead of us. Unwilling to return home defeated, we took the train across the East River to catch the last hour of the NY Art Book Fair at MoMa PS1, which was incredible. We should’ve gone there in the first place. So now it’s suddenly Monday morning again and I’ve just gotten out of a painful fencing class, sweaty and possibly bruised, but happily scarfing down the free frozen yogurt from down the street. I’ve had it 4 times since I came here and not a single time have I paid for it. I’m not sure how they make money, but I’m not complaining as a broke college kid. Take that, James Turrell.’
‘This past week started off with a near all-nighter (up until 7.30 finalising a project for sustainable packaging) and tornado warnings, both of which set the tone for all sorts of disoriented insanity. There was a vicariously lived date with Sagmeister and a rather exclusive little Type Director’s Club round table discussion, during which the brilliant farm-boy-turned-design-writer Doug Clouse leaned in and told me I had a beautifully composed sketchbook full of notes as I frantically scribbled down everything he said—like the fangirl I am. There was the spotting of Banksy’s debut piece for his month-long residency in NYC—the best one, we decided, because it’s a well-executed typographical joke. There was a masala dosa of epic proportions, many a realisation that the weeks are passing by far too quickly, and a first date at the Magritte exhibit in MoMA.’
‘My Mom’s birthday week visitation and aftermath in bullet points:
Yo Yo Ma and the Silk Road Ensemble made me laugh and cry in the same hour. Thinking of upgrading from classical piano and picking up the pipa like a proper Asian girl.
15 courses of heaven at Eleven Madison Park were worth each and every penny. Weaving plans to elope with chef Daniel Humm so he can cook for me daily. I’m fully willing to trade traditional domestic roles and fix household appliances.
Stuffed full of miscellaneous Asian fare at Dim Sum Go Go / Momofuku / Cho Dang Gol because the next time my mother visits it will be alongside my stepdad, who thinks even fried rice is too exotic.
Snagged half-off tickets for Big Fish on Broadway, which again made me laugh and cry within the same hour. The older I get, the more I appreciate set designs. This one was badass.
Mom caught her flight and I went to a documentary screening for Design is One, at which Massimo Vignelli himself made an appearance for Q&A. I spent half of the time fangirling over his excellent eyebrows and the other half was spent wondering why I haven’t yet forced myself into the Vignelli’s lives and had them cook me spaghetti served up in perfect, stackable Heller dinnerware.
I witnessed perhaps the most brilliantly unorthodox interpretation of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar to date. It was performed in a Brooklyn warehouse, featured an all-female cast, set in a women’s prison, and involved Caesar force-feeding Cassius Dunkin Donuts. What more needs to be said?
Surely one is not allowed to have this much fun in such a condensed amount of time. I’m paying for it with Sunday catch-up work… but some friends are meeting up at a wine bar tonight, which I will most likely cave into. I’ll remember this trip for the extracurriculars just as much—if not more—than the coursework (or at least that’s what I tell myself); wine is certainly extracurricular.’
‘Two very different guest lecturers, both very inspiring designers. Some words of wisdom.
I deeply believe in laziness; think 8 hours, work 2. You might notice I’m not black. I’m not gay. But if they lose their rights, I’m next. You must fight for others. If you wait for them to come knocking on your door, it’s too late. Knock & blink (referring to the time he arrived in America with his portfolio, literally knocked on Milton Glaser’s door for a job, and ended up designing the covers for Time ’
‘I spent a whole field trip day in Brooklyn for both of my Tuesday classes, which happened to be on the two opposite ends of the design spectrum. For Sustainable Packaging Design we visited the branding studio BBMG, which had respectable sustainability initiatives and hip office space, but was wholly unattractive to me as a future career path. I’ll be brutally honest and admit that by the time they got to the slide titled “Concept 9, Version 2″ for a sample client presentation, I couldn’t take it seriously anymore. While each concept looked to me like a slightly different variation on the same Pinterest board, it probably works very well in reality; this is the stuff you see on the shelves of Whole Foods, so I suppose it’s not fair to call it lowbrow. It’s the high end of lowbrow design, but even at that point it loses any element of unapplied artistry, beautifully meticulous specialisation of craft, and becomes a combination of design blog aesthetic, daFont archives, and consumer focus group statistics. Those things can be great, but they’re not what graphic design is at it’s core. Am I being a complete snob? Probably, but I’d rather come off this way and defend my craft than feed into the pervading perception that graphic design is for making clever bank logos and pretty theatre posters. I can imagine plenty of talented people who would be perfectly successful and happy to work in this field; there is certainly a place for this, but it is not what I want. I want Vignelli’s stubborn classical standards and Sagmeister’s cutting-edge gutsiness mixed in with some Mirko Ilic’s rebellion and Doug Clouse’s scholarliness. Louise Fili’s historical sentimentality, Marian Bantjes’s fussy flashiness. Frightening ambition and unexpected humility from the young Jessicas, Walsh and Hische respectively. The list goes on, but it does not include BBMG and their touted innovative solutions. That being harshly said, the experience was nevertheless a valuable one.
On the other hand, there was Peter Kruty Editions, which is a letterpress and bookbinding studio that my Bookbinding instructor owns with her husband. What they accomplish there is far less crafty than I’d imagined; while they do churn out wedding invitations aplenty, they also boasted an amazing repertoire of collaborative artist books that they’ve made with fine artists over the years. It’s all about a very specific set of skills and materials, the content and concept, and caters to the minute percentage of the population consisting of book collectors, curators, and cultured rich people who happen to like the specific artist producing that small edition of painstakingly hand-crafted books. It’s moments like these that make me halfway question my decision to slowly diverge from my fine arts training. Upon returning home, I realised that my fabric was too wrinkly for screen printing the next morning, and there was no iron in sight. I put a A1 piece of cardboard under my bedspread and heated up a frying pan to iron the scraps. It was working wonderfully and I was quite proud of my resourcefulness until I melted a hole in my bed—damn synthetic fibres. Guess I still have fine art student problems.
Similarly, I experienced opposites on the concert spectrum this week. I got cheap tickets to see the Fratellis perform at Webster Hall, a venue and crowd that reminded me—perhaps too much—of the ol’ high school days in Jax beach. I stood moodily in the second row with my aching feet amongst screeching, sweaty preteens and finished a book of Mary Oliver poems between sets. Yes, I was that girl. The next day I happily attended a concert at the Rubin Museum, where pianist Frederic Chiu and poet Hsing-Lih Chou performed a mash-up of French Impressionist music (Ravel, Debussy) and Song Dynasty poetry recitation (Su Dong Po). I guess I always knew I was an old lady, but this really confirmed it.
I traipsed around Chelsea Market and Bleecker Street, saw the leaves change on the High Line, and ate too many meals out. Halloween came and went, I slapped together a last-minute Miyazaki costume, and everybody’s secretly happy that Thanksgiving and Christmas get the limelight now.’
‘It’s old news that New York is obsessed with itself, but I never knew I’d be reaping the benefits. The design culture here is, as a result of that fact, extremely accessible and tight-knit. To lump into my growing collection of designer fangirl photos, I met both Stefan Sagmeister and Timothy Goodman this week, which completes the whole 40 Days of Dating circle. One was in the context of a brief presentation and portfolio review (which went surprisingly well) and the other was in the context of open bar and goofy dance-offs (which also went surprisingly well), but that just proves how varied the creative scene is here. The longer I’m exposed to these popular kids of the design industry, the more apparent it becomes that to make it big you’ll inevitably be intertwined in many which ways with all the others—not unlike high school. Everyone who’s anyone is either co-author, spouse, or former understudy/mentor of everybody else who’s anybody. I will be back for the Art Director’s Club Young Guns award, preferably as a recipient. That’s right, I just committed to that aspiration on a public blog post.
In other news: BYOB Indian restaurants decked out with psychedelic lights, Jazz concerts in a colourful Central Park, the continued hunt for my favourite bookstore, too much time spent in cafés replying to ambitious snail mail, and takoyaki with an old friend from Florida. Laundry, and maybe some homework.’
‘I think the hype surrounding “nice views” were always something that I never understood as a child, but it’s definitely something I appreciate more and more. Looking out at the very tip top of the Rockefeller observation deck was pretty incredible, just to think of each individual consciousness existing within every single one of those pin-prick beehive offices in this grimy, tireless, sky-high city.
As for St. Peter’s Church on Lexington, you can’t expect anything but the best from Massimo Vignelli…God is so proud. The facade! The spindly spiral stairway! The organ! That altar. As Lella said, “God’s table” has to be sturdy. The Jazz Mass was extremely unorthodox for a strictly orthodox sect of Christianity, there were still only about 30 people in attendance. This is smack-dab in the middle of Manhattan in a breathtakingly-designed building with wonderful musicians and free bread and wine—what’s the deal?’
Week 16 & 17:
‘Last roommate hurrah before she packed up and left for the holidays. We went to see our favourite Spice Girl (Mel B, obviously) at the Katie Couric show, coming full circle from our first bonding experience at Rachel Ray in September. Spent a full day across the river, indulging our hipster tendencies and spending too much money on vinyl records, old books, vintage clothes, and overpriced artisanal sandwiches. What happens in Williamsburg stays in Williamsburg. Last tapas hurrah. Met up for dinner to return a friend’s graciously loaned ukulele and, slightly begrudgingly, visited the aggravatingly hyped Yayoi Kusama exhibit. It was neat enough, but I still can’t fully shake the snooty opinion that it’s a sort of cheap trick combining the faux sophistication of fine arts installation with Instagrammable shiny things. But I Instagrammed it, so I suppose the cheap trick works well. Last Chelsea hurrah with a full sweep of gallery shows and Chelsea Market—ALL IN THE BLANKET OF FRESH SNOW. Steadily, silently, scintillatingly falling snow.
That’s it. Goodbye NYC. But despite what Akshitha keeps wailing, THE DREAM IS NOT OVER.’
This is for every wild blackberry bush we bypassed in Pembrokeshire, each tainted with an unripened August blush and not yet ready for picking. This pancake is to commemorate everySwedishmeal of the bygone summer, which fades further into memory with each cloudy morning and fallen leaf. The strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries of summer have disappeared along with the season, and Rubus fruticosus will soon follow.
But with one season’s end comes another’s beginnings, and the transition into Autumn has perhaps always been my favourite. Growing up in Florida, that first cool and dry breeze ever-so-slightly cutting into the swampy humidity of a summer thunderstorm always sent me into a preemptive unpacking scarves and brewing up a cup of tea.
Today we’ve handed in the keys to our old flat and scheduled an IKEA trip to fill up our new space. Today I officially conceded my summer break and enrolled for my third and final year as a undergraduate design student. It’s the end of sun-ripened London but—just like the blackberry itself—this thick oven pancake has all the makings of an season in-betweener. Punctuated with the berries and sharp lemon brightness of yester-season, a square of this eggy brunch indulgence will revive any memory of a lazy summer morning.
Grease a baking tin or cast-iron skillet with coconut oil and place in the oven at 400ºF / 200ºC to preheat.
Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl, mixing well. Whisk wet ingredients and gradually add into the dry, being careful not to over-mix.
Pour batter in sizzling hot pan, swirl in spoons of blackberry preserve, dot in dollops of the cheese and smashed blackberry, and then returning to the oven to bake for about 20 minutes or until golden and puffed up.
Serve immediately, sprinkled with flaked almonds, fresh blackberries, and a squeeze of lemon.
This summer break—possibly my last as a student—didn’t feel like much of a holiday. The end-of-school anticipation for London summertime seemed to have brought about more excitement than the calendar months themselves, but who can really complain aboutexcessivetravelling, dream internships, and a slew of new personal projects, however relentlessly time-consuming?
Nearly two months ago, I went wild camping in Pembrokeshire with a couple dear friends in secluded celebration of my height-of-summer birthday. This may be belatedly posted, but the weather was reminiscent of current late September; we pitched our tent right on the Welsh coast, over which hangs a perennial hint of chilly and wet autumn.
The blackberries were still a teasing tinge of maroon and not yet ready for our campfire crumble, but some other summer produce was at its best: sweetcorn, peaches, and local Welsh beer. Preparing Mexican street food on a blanket sprawled over the wet and windy seaside cliff is more rewarding than I’ve just made it out to be; there’s so much fun in the challenge of adapting kitchen recipes to work in the outdoors, especially away from campsite electricity. Limitations and unpredictability demand resourcefulness, which often results in creative meals (bonus points for making it taste good, too).
I could nostalgically go on forever about the time between our outdoor meals, scrambling across the salt-pounded rocks and reclining to peach-coloured sunsets, but I think these snaps and Ben’sbrilliant film sum up summer far more eloquently than any fumbling words of mine.
Elote (Mexican-Style Corn on the Cob)
3 ears of corn, husks on
2 T mayonnaise
3 T thick plain yogurt
1 lime, zest of
1 T chili powder
cojita cheese, crumbled (or parmesan)
fresh coriander, chopped roughly
1 lime, wedged to serve
Prep the elote dressing at home, combining mayo and yogurt thoroughly in a ziplock bag with lime zest, chilli powder, and salt/pepper.
Soak the whole ears of corn in cold, salted water for 30 minutes before cooking on a grill over the fire for 10-30 minutes, turning occasionally to cook evenly until husks are charred.
Shuck carefully (avoiding released steam) and smear with lime butter mixture. Sprinkle crumbled cojita cheese, freshly chopped cilantro, and a squeeze of lime.
Balsamic Roasted Peaches
3 T honey
1 T balsamic vinegar
Prepare the marinade ahead, mixing honey and balsamic vinegar.
At the campfire or camping stove, halve and pit the peaches before brushing with the marinade and grilling until juicy and caramelised. Cover with a lid to speed up cooking.
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 ½ cups spelt flour
1 T baking powder
2 t baking soda
pinch of salt
2 cups beer
¼ cup vegetable oil
In preparation, mix together dry ingredients in an airtight container.
On site, beat together eggs and oil and add to the dry mixture along with enough beer to make a thick but pourable (and bubbly) batter. Over low heat, pour batter into a disc and when it bubbles and becomes flippable, cook on the other side for another minute or so until golden. Serve with honey, maple syrup, or butter… or bacon.
The charm of analogue photography is something a digital camera, no matter how many megapixels in strength, cannot replicate. I miss the rickety clicking of sprockets as the film is advanced after each shot, the mystery of whether that perfect moment was captured with the right exposure, squinting to decrypt small rectangular negatives against a windowpane, the giddiness upon seeing an image materialise before your eyes in the chemical bath, bringing it out of the red-lit darkroom to examine fully for the first time, and reliving the moment in which the very same scene was carefully composed through a camera viewfinder.
But its attractions and limitations are one in the same, and there were one too many instances of gut-wrenching disappointment, coming back from a beautiful holiday to find that the film was botched—the time spent crouching unbecomingly in front of flower specimens and pestering your friends to “wait, stay right there, that’s perfect, just let me adjust the focus!” was all for naught.
In many cases, it’s more than worth that risk. I learned film photography on my father’s old Nikon FM2 and experienced the glory of a 50mm prime lens with the lowest f-stop I’d ever dialled down to. I saw the world in Ilford black/white and, for once in my life, scrupulously delighted in imperfection; if a stunning orange streak of light-leak is technically a mistake, why bother getting it perfect?
But alas, there’s the ever-persistent and ever-so-boring issue of expenses, of practicality, of security, of turnaround time. I’ve considered reverting to film for this blog venture, but it just wouldn’t make sense right now. Back in the glory days I would spend so much time in the darkroom trying to perfect one print that normal circadian rhythms were sacrificed in exchange for superhuman night vision; I’d walk out and feel like an analogue vampire in the blinding midday light or, even more disorienting, exit into more darkness without realising the whole day had gone by. Maybe one day I’ll convert my bathroom into a DIY darkroom or win a free film lottery jackpot, but for now I’ll just invite the lovely Hollie Fernando into my kitchen.
Despite of all the reasons I lean digital these days (and hey don’t get me wrong—there are plenty of pixelated nuances that make it as artfully delightful as analogue), I fully understand and respect that she “just can’t fall in love with it”. And looking at her beautiful handiwork, that persistent love affair with film is evident in each grainy-good photograph. She’s shared her final snaps with me, with which I’ll trail off this post in hopes of sharing the best of both worlds and adding a little bit of the double-exposed charm back to my own life.
I was honoured when she approached me for a new project of hers, but even more excited to share the process of this meal with a fellow visual feaster. Neither of us had handled a live crab before but I knew that if I were to try my hand at Maryland-style crab soup, I’d want to see this creature all the way through. People are quick to furrow their brow disapprovingly at the thought of killing something in the kitchen before preparing it for the dinner table, as if buying pre-picked crab meat in a vacuum-sealed freezer pack is more compassionate or civilised; on the contrary, I’m of the opinion that freshly and humanely killing your meal is far more respectful to the animal, truer to how we were meant to draw sustenance from resources around us, and generally more tasty!
With crabs, it’s particularly important because bacteria will begin eating away and changing the flavour of its meat as soon as it dies…and no crab should die for the sake of a soup that’s anything less than fresh and flavourful. This is the case with most seafood, which explains why many parts of the world eat seafood while it’s still alive and, in many cases, kicking. (Drunken shrimp and raw oysters, anyone?)
It’s a messy job to kill, cook, and dress a crab, but in the best way possible. Even when taking a hammer and some pliers to the stubborn exoskeletal claws (I would discover fragments of shell scattered about my hair, hours later), we found ourselves in a contented silence; painstakingly extracting the tiny slivers and sweet nuggets of crab meat from every honeycomb crevice was inexplicably therapeutic, serenely systematic. Grab one of these prehistoric-looking crustaceans before the end of their season. I’ve paired them here with piles of Fabaceae and pods of green legume goodies—fresh broad beans, french/string beans, garden peas, runner beans—and a hefty sprinkle of homemade Old Bay seasoning, which is only as complicated as a pinch of every spice in your pantry. And the best advice I can give is to never, ever forget the fresh loaf of crusty sourdough.
Maryland Crab Soup w/ Fresh Legumes
whole live crab
1 stalks celery, chopped
1 t black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
½ onion, chopped
400g tomatoes, chopped
1 stalk celery, sliced thinly
200g waxy potatoes, cubed
1 ear sweetcorn
150g in-pod broad beans
150g in-pod green peas
150g french/green beans
Old Bay seasoning:
2 bay leaves
1 T celery salt
¼ t paprika
⅛ t black pepper
⅛ t cayenne pepper
pinch of powdered mustard
pinch of smoked paprika
pinch of nutmeg
pinch of cinnamon
pinch of allspice
pinch of cloves
pinch of ginger
I educated myself as thoroughly as I could before humanely killing and dressing this crab, and a great thing called Google makes this easy for anyone to do the same. I won’t claim to be an authority, so do check out thesevideos, read up on reputablemarine resource pages, and don’t just shove your live crab in a pot of boiling water!
Bring (unsalted) water to a boil in a large enough pot to fit the crab. Place in the entire crab and cook over high until shells are bright red. Use tongs to remove the crab and let it cool. When it’s cool enough to handle, remove all the meat to set aside and add big segments of shell back to the pot.
Add the two stalks of chopped celery, half an onion, garlic cloves, and peppercorns into the cooking liquid along with crab shell fragments. Boil this broth uncovered for about an hour, skimming the froth off the top occasionally. Strain through cheese-cloth or a fine sieve into a large bowl, pressing out all the liquid and discarding leftover solids.
In a saucepan, sauté onions and celery in some oil over medium heat until softened. Add all the vegetables, along with the homemade Old Bay, into the crab stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer for 30 minutes.
Add crabmeat back to the soup and simmer 5 minutes more. Adjust seasonings and serve hot with fresh bread.
I was familiar with Fig Newtons long before I knew what a fig looked like—and much less how the honeyed flesh of a fresh one tasted! Little did I know, they’re Nabisco’s non-exotic lunchbox versions of the ancient Egyptian fig roll.
With Charles Roser’s 1891 patent for a dream machine that would systematically spit out fig rolls, mass production estranged American kids like me from the delights of a full-form Ficus carica! It’s native to the Middle East and West Asia, also thriving in the Mediterranean climate and finickily requiring a very specific species of wasp to pollinate.
A plant with a biblical backbone, it’s the star of many a parable and a symbol for abundance, security, and prosperity; its leaves concealing a suddenly ashamed Adam & Eve, its tree a running metaphor for the nation of Israel, its fruit signifying ripe maturation and wealth.
When I sank my teeth into a fresh fig for the first time in two deprived decades, I was surprised by how much more supple and subtly sweet it was in comparison to the pastry-sandwiched preserves I knew from childhood. Still, there’s something about the crackling round seeds and condensed nectar consistency of fig paste that I continue to love.
This baked concoction is a homage to both—a base of crumbly pastry layered with sticky, orange-infused fig jam, then slathered with sticky figgy almond cake batter and thick slices of the fresh British figs themselves.
And with what better fruit than the fig to celebrate both the birth of a sweet friend and a new church plant in the city? Looking towards the heavens for sustenance just as young plants grow towards the sunlight, Grace London is but a gospeltropic seedling in a barren patch of this city we love very much. At the moment it’s just nine faithful friends who gather, pray, play, and eat (!) as a God-loving family, but the fruit is forthcoming—let it be a prosperous, mature, and joyful harvest.
Sticky Fig Roll Cake
400g quality dried figs, stems removed and diced
2 t grated orange zest
1 large egg
2 T almond milk
60ml quality olive oil
40g unrefined sugar
splash of vanilla extract
150g spelt flour
½ t baking powder
¼ t baking soda
pinch of kosher salt
70g spelt flour
50g almond flour
pinch of salt
½ t baking powder
½ t baking soda
pinch of cinnamon
1 large egg
1 t orange zest
60ml quality olive oil
3-4 fresh figs
Grease a baking tray and preheat the oven to 175ºC / 350ºF.
Combine chopped figs, water, honey, and orange zest in a saucepan and bring to a rolling boil before reducing to a simmer. Stir and mash figs as they begin to soften and the concoction reduces into a chunky paste, adding water as needed to maintain the right consistency. It will firm up as it cools, so make sure the mixture is still moist enough to when taking off the heat. Set aside.
Combine wet and dry ingredients for the dough separately, then sift the dry into the well-combined wet mixture until a soft, sticky dough forms. Knead with hands and mix well, pressing evenly into the bottom of the greased baking tray. Spread ¾ of the fig filling evenly over this pressed bottom layer of dough.
Mix the remaining ¼ fig filling in with the wet ingredients for the cake batter, whipping the eggs along with the honey, orange zest, and slowly streaming in the olive oil. Combine the dry ingredients and sift them into the wet, but don’t over mix. Spread this batter atop the layer of fig mixture, then arrange fresh fig slices on top along with a sprinkling of almond flakes.
Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden and risen. Slice into bars and serve warm, gooey, and with a scoop of vanilla ice cream if feeling particularly decadent.
When learning about a foreign country, one of the most telling and fascinating aspects to observe is the natives’ treatment of the cultural minorities there—how they are spoken of, interacted with, portrayed by the media. Where I left behind the late-night Cuban diners of South Florida, I discovered streets swimming in the aroma of curry spices; and although it’s painfully hard to find a decently wrapped burrito here, I’ll have the extravagant choice of ten different Jamaican hot sauces at the nearest corner shop.
Notting Hill Carnival is happening right now, some 10 miles north of me. The streets are undoubtedly packed with millions of people despite the pouring rain, and most of them aren’t going to be your typical Ladbroke Grove denizens. Long before Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts, Notting Hill was a hub of cheap housing for Afro-Caribbean immigrants and the site of many a race riot in the 50s. Originally an exclusively Trinidadian festival, Carnival has since expanded and evolved to celebrate the West Indian community and influence in London. One of those influences has to be food.
As with any iconic dessert item, you’ll find the bastardised but equally popular versions in shrink-wrapped Tesco shelves. This recipe for Jamaican Ginger Cake is comparatively good for your insides, sweetened mostly with dates, roughed up with spelt flour, and made rich with coconut oil. Above all, it is unabashedly spicy and infused threefold with ginger: powder dried, freshly grated, and sugar crystallised.
I love the bold but humble Caribbean flavours—tropical, spicy, always served in heaping portions of coconut-steamed comfort—and rejoice over the broad selection here. They manifest as trendy street food stalls in Dalston, the authentically loud and vibrant markets of Brixton, even the dedicated “world food” aisles in Sainsbury’s…and an entire carnival that spans bank holiday weekend, overflowing with jerk chicken and leaving residues of celebratorily-spilt Red Stripe on the otherwise-manicured streets of Notting Hill for days afterward, a sticky testament to its rich ethnic history.
Jamaican 3-Ginger Cake with Dates
175g (~1 ½ cups) spelt flour
1 T ground ginger
½ t mixed spice or cinnamon
½ t baking powder
¼ t baking soda
pinch of salt
2 T malt syrup
2 T treacle / molasses
70g (⅓ cup) melted coconut oil
40g (3 T) muscovado sugar
60ml (¼ cup) boiling water
walnut-sized piece of fresh ginger, grated
1 large egg, beaten
a few dried dates, chopped
small handful of crystallised ginger, chopped
6 dried dates, soaked in boiling water
Preheat oven to 180ºC.
Mix flour, spices, and raising agents in one bowl. In a saucepan over very low heat, melt all the wet and sticky ingredients together, only leaving on the flame until combined.
Now stir wet into dry, folding in the egg and chopped dates. Pour in some of the date soaking water as necessary to bring the batter to a consistency that feels sticky, but not too clumpy and thick.
Transfer to a greased tin and bake for 20-30 minutes or until done (toothpick test will have slight residue).
Meanwhile, to make the date glaze, blend the soaked dates in just enough of their soaking water to make a thick but pourable consistency. Set aside.
When finished, carefully turn out onto a baking rack. While cake is still hot, poke holes in the top and drizzle over sticky glaze.
Since uni officially let out for the summer, I couldn’t remember the last time I properly set aside a whole morning to experiment in the kitchen. The bulkofmytravels are over now, but this new internship is keeping me busy and my weekends have been spent in a daze of seeing two of my favourite musicians play back-to-back, photographing friends’ weddings, tackling a few more design projects on the side, and avoiding the start of my dissertation research.
Something about setting an early alarm to tackle a labour-intensive lunch is rewarding beyond the edible end product. For many mothers in the Arabic, Levantine, and Greek world, the definition of labour-intensive dish is moussaka—and I finally understand why. That being said, don’t let the extra work keep you from making this layered gem, pleaser of crowds and tastebuds alike. It’s not so difficult, but requires multiple steps and generates plenty of dirty dishes. I made the spiced lentil filling the night before, and mise en place will speed things along.
Aubergine—king of the nightshades and cornerstone of any moussaka—can be tricky to fry, but baking the slices eliminates oil-sponging issues, requires no pre-salting, and makes less of a mess. And although it’s not particularly similar to the aubergine (which is actually a berry!) in biological terms, the courgette will always be closely associated in my mind and on summer grilltops; along with other culinary tidbits like coriander/cilantro, I’ve had to turn the UK/US terminology switch for eggplant and zucchini. At the height of both their seasons, layering of these two faux-cousins make for a great textural variation, as both are delicately flavoured but result in very different mouthfeel after cooking.
A cauliflower white-sauce concoction was a gamble, but turned out beautifully similar to a classic flour-butter-milk béchamel and so very suitable for a vegetarian moussaka. There has been a cauliflower versatility boom in the recent years, and the colour itself is practically a blank canvas begging to be adapted. Sprinkled with broil-browned pecorino and fluffed up with a beaten egg, you’ll not be able to tell the difference.
The assembly, the consumption, and the sharing of moussaka are all worth waking up early for—even during a stupidly busy summer weekend.
Cauliflower Courgette Moussaka
2 courgettes (zucchinis)
2 aubergines (eggplants)
1 sweet potato
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
100ml red wine
150g dried lentils & split peas
300g tomatoes, chopped
a handful of cauliflower florets, grated
1 bay leaf
1 t oregano
2 t cinnamon
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 T butter
1 small cauliflower
3-4 T grated pecorino, plus more for topping
generous pinch of nutmeg
black pepper, freshly ground
kosher salt, to taste
Preheat oven to 250ºC / 500ºF and grease two baking trays with olive oil.
Peel aubergine in a striped pattern and slice into rounds that are about 1cm thick.
Peel the potatoes and courgette and slice in similar thickness. Courgette skin can be bitter, but you can leave them on during roasting to prevent the watery flesh from falling apart and peel them off afterwards. I sliced one of mine thicker and lengthwise, which hardly retains firmness after cooking but adds a bit of textural variation.
Place the slices onto a single layer of the baking tray and brush with more olive oil, seasoning with salt and pepper. It may take a few batches and the re-greasing of trays to finish roasting all the vegetables, each batch taking about 15 minutes. The potatoes will take longer (or alternatively, you can parboil them), so pop them in while you slice the other vegetables. Keep an eye on them and flip halfway through when one side has browned sufficiently, also rotating the top/bottom racks in the oven.
Meanwhile, heat up olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Toss in diced onion and garlic until soft and fragrant. Pour in wine and allow to boil away. Add lentils, tomatoes, oregano, and cinnamon. Top up with broth/water and add a bay leaf. Coursly grate in a handful of cauliflower florets. Bring to a rolling boil before lowering to a simmer and partially covering. The lentils should be cooked after 30-40 minutes, and the sauce reduced to be thick. If not, leave uncovered until most liquid is evaporated. This can also be made the night before.
For the cauliflower “béchamel” sauce, sauté garlic in butter over low heat. Avoid browning or burning the garlic and remove after a couple minutes to set aside.
Cover cauliflower in broth or water and boil for 10 minutes or until fork-tender.
Transfer cooked florets into a blender along with grated cheese and the garlic. Drizzle with a few gluts of olive oil and puree until very smooth, adding milk as needed to achieve desired thickness. Season with salt/pepper to taste and add a pinch of nutmeg. Gradually and thoroughly whisk in the egg.
Lower the oven temperature to 200ºC / 390ºF. To assemble the moussaka, the layer the roasted potatoes on the bottom of a deep, oiled baking dish. Arrange a layer of courgette and aubergine on top, then spread a layer of half the lentil ragú. Add a layer of sweet potato, more courgette, then another spread of remaining lentils. Finish with a layer of aubergine. Top with the creamy cauliflower sauce, sprinkle with grated pecorino cheese, and bake for about 45 minutes, when top becomes golden and bubbly.
After removing from the oven, wait for the moussaka to cool and firm up so that cutting and serving becomes much easier.
I’ve been going on and on (and on) about my ultimate wandercrush, which has culminated into this final photo essay on Sweden. From the moment I stepped foot into Louise’s seaside home in charming little Nyhamnsläge to the moment our VW camper van pulled up to their schoolhouse-turned-missionary-church-turned-lakehouse in Bjälverud (yep, you read that right), I knew that capturing the beauty of the Swedish waterfront in simple photographic stills would be an impossible task; one can only come so close when attempting to objectify the sublime, but I felt compelled to—quite literally—give it a shot.
Likewise, from waterfront to waterfront, the kind of hospitality we were blessed with on this trip can’t be measured…except maybe by cake—more specifically, the “World’s Best Apple Cake”, whipped up by Louise’s aunt to append our last meal together.
Assembled around our final feast in the very same pews that the converted building’s last congregation would have worshiped in (and feeling similarly blessed), gathered around the massive wooden table splashed in beams of a Scandinavian sundown, a forkful of this cake did indeed taste like the best in the world.
“World’s Best Apple Cake”
adapted from a Norwegian recipe
2-4 organic apples, peeled and chopped
200g coconut oil
150g unrefined sugar
100g plain flour
50g almond flour
2 t baking powder
Melt the coconut oil and add sugar. Stir in the eggs, flour, and baking powder.
Oil a dish (about 24cm in diameter) and preheat oven to 190ºC / 375ºF.
Place chopped apples in the dish, then pour over the cake batter mix. Sprinkle chopped almonds and nib sugar.
Bake for 30-40 minutes and serve with vanilla ice cream.